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Indoor Grades at Redpoint

Use the force..

It seems that grades are a topic that is a hot favourite for on-line debate, so here is our take on it, for what its worth....

Anyone who is used to climbing indoor routes on relatively flat walls may find that when they are climbing routes here at Redpoint they'll need to look around for holds or more imaginative sequences, all the major features such as arêtes and corners are included in the route to make for a more natural flow. Not using these features will make routes seem harder than they are intended.

Any route grade is given for the easiest way of doing the moves. There are usually many different ways of doing a route and some ways will be much harder than others.

Your height is always going to make a difference to the apparent grade of a route. Taller than average people may find some moves easier whilst those of a smaller stature will find high rockovers and mantles easier. It's all swings and roundabouts. If you feel that your size gives you an advantage or disadvantage on a route then feel free to adjust the grade in your own mind.

Ultimately grades can only ever be an indication, but it is worth bearing in mind that the Sport Grades used indoors are supposed to be the same as the Sports Grades used outdoors. If you think that a route is hard for the grade, ask yourself what grade you would give it if it was outdoors.

We do appreciate feedback on our routes and we have a suggestions box for feedback on which routes people think are good or bad. We have a policy of tweaking routes or modifying grades according to the consensus of opinion. Comments on 'good' routes outnumber comments on 'bad' routes by about 10 to 1 at the moment.

The subjective nature of routes is perfectly summed up by the fact that we re-set a route the day after someone said they thought that it 'wasn't imaginative enough' and then the next day someone else complained that we'd taken the route down 'cause they loved the original one!

[ Published by Phil Minal in STUFF ]

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